Egg coffee is one of Hanoi's signature drinks: strong coffee underneath, and on top a golden, velvety egg cream that tastes a bit like tiramisu. It sounds elaborate, but at home you only need a few pantry staples and a little patience with the whisk.
The story behind it
As the popular story goes, egg coffee was created in Hanoi around 1946 by Nguyễn Văn Giảng, then a bartender at the Hotel Metropole. Fresh milk was scarce at the time, so he whipped egg yolks to stand in for the creamy milk in coffee. His family later opened their own café, and egg coffee became a fixture of the Old Quarter. Details vary depending on who tells it, but this is the version you'll hear most often.
For two cups
- 2 very fresh egg yolks, ideally from pasteurised eggs.
- 2–3 tablespoons of condensed milk.
- 1–2 teaspoons of sugar (optional; it helps the cream whip up and hold).
- 40 g of ground coffee for two strong phins, about 20 g with 50–60 ml of water each. A Robusta-forward phin grind works well here, cutting through the richness of the egg.
- An electric hand mixer (or a balloon whisk and a strong arm).
Method
- Separate the yolks carefully. Even a little egg white makes the cream taste eggy and stops it whipping well.
- Whisk the yolks with the sugar for 2–3 minutes, until pale yellow.
- Add the condensed milk and keep whisking on high for 3–5 minutes, until thick, smooth and roughly doubled, falling from the beaters in a heavy ribbon.
- Brew the coffee while you whisk. Keep it short and strong, about 40–50 ml per cup, so it doesn't drown the cream.
- Keep it warm by standing each cup in a bowl of hot water, just as many Hanoi cafés still do.
- Spoon the egg cream on top in a thick layer. Eat a few spoonfuls first, then stir gently so the cream melts into the coffee.
Tip: For a rounder aroma, add a drop of vanilla or a splash of rum while whisking. Folding a teaspoon of the brewed coffee into the cream also helps the two layers taste like one drink.
A note on raw eggs
Egg coffee uses uncooked yolks, so there's a risk of bacteria such as Salmonella if the eggs aren't sound. To be safe:
- Use fresh, clean, uncracked eggs from a source you trust; pasteurised eggs are best.
- Serve it straight away and don't leave the egg cream sitting at room temperature.
- It isn't suitable for pregnant women or young children, nor for elderly people or anyone with a weakened immune system.
Variations
- Iced egg coffee: let the coffee cool slightly, pour it over ice and top with the cream.
- Egg cocoa: swap the coffee for hot cocoa for anyone who skips caffeine.
If you love a coffee with a creamy crown, try Huế salt coffee next, egg coffee's saltier cousin from central Vietnam.
